
On Old Crushes and New Water -
There ought to be moments in life where everyone gets the chance to follow up on one of those persistent wants or needs, when life offers up the chance to chase them. For years, I had seen shot after glossy shot of Cathy Beck holding what seemed to be too-large for the stream rainbows and browns pasted to the cover of one fly fishing rag or another (Have you ever wondered which one holds the camera and which focuses the lens in a Barry and Cathy Beck photo? Who pushes the button? And how do they . . . ah, never mind.) These were sexy trout. Whispers from those in the fly fishing industry who supposedly had the inside scoop tickled my inner-ear with the name of a Northeastern Pennsylvania stream—Fishing Creek.
I’d fished one of Pennsylvania’s Fishing Creeks many times: a limestone stream in the central part of the state that also held a decent population of large wild trout. But I was told that this was an entirely separate watershed—an hour and a half further north and east from the stream I was familiar with. It was in Columbia county. It was a freestone stream.
The seed had been planted.
Every time I saw one of the Beck’s holding a pig Brown or Bow, my eyes raced to the caption. Many times I found the name that I sought—Fishing Creek. With each one of these photos, what had begun as an idle interest grew into the kind of lust only the mind of a truly deranged trout bum could foster. But the stream lay too far away for a day trip. And no one travels to Northeastern PA to fish Fishing Creek. No one I knew anyway. There are too many other well-known wild trout streams mentioned in books penned on Pennsylvanian fishing: in that corner of the state, rivers like the Lehigh, Delaware, and Lackawanna, not to mention streams like the Broadhead and Bushkill call visiting anglers each year. So years went by and I buried that lust in that same place I bury all forbidden love. Happily though, like any great love story, it doesn’t end here.
Just this past winter my wife informed me we’d be going to Bloomsburg in Northeastern Pennsylvania to attend a wedding. Her cousin you see—her college roommate—was getting married. The date? April 25. It was to be an evening wedding. Not quite immediately, but certainly within the hour I was on the phone with her father—a man I have thoroughly infected with my particular disease.
Fishing? Should there be any?
Do you think the girls will mind?
No. Certainly not for a few hours?
I have just the place in mind. It runs right through town.
Can you arrange a guide?
We’ll see.
I found a guy on the web named William Whitebread who has a business called Slate Drake Guide Services. I immediately looked at the photo gallery. Sexy fish. We’d only be able to manage a half day. We made the arrangements and I waited anxiously for the day to arrive. With only a four to six hour window to fish, so many things could happen to blow this shot. Bill told me that if anything did happen, given the state of things, he’d be glad to refund our deposit if we couldn’t fish.
The fateful day dawned clear and unseasonably warm for an April in Pennsylvania. I couldn’t sleep the night before and was sitting in the hotel lobby sipping coffee and reading Robert Service poems as the windows refracted the days first rays of sun. My father-in-law arrived soon after the sun and we sat quietly, each considering the day to come from our own perspectives: me anxious to find one of those glossy trout I’d wanted for so long and him disproportionately hopeful in the heightened way of a new anglers.
Our man arrived at the mutually agreed upon time and we followed his pickup as he led us through the narrow one way maze of a strange town. My father-in-law drove and I examined all the stickers on the window of our guide’s truck cap. A hodge podge that suggested no particular allegiance, but rather hinted at a lifestyle to those who can read such things. Orvis. St. Croix. Ducks Unlimited. Trout Unlimited. Sage. Rio. It was promising.
Soon my eyes were drawn away by the sight of the stream—more of a small river. Deep and wide in places and narrow and chocked—but still deep—in others, this looked like big trout water. As we followed, I noticed many places along the stream that were filled with timber, sweepers deposited no doubt by the 2005 flood that ripped through the Northeastern U.S, places where trout could live and grow large unmolested by predators.
After assuring our guide that I would do well on my own and that he should focus his attention on my father-in-law, we waded across the top of a run and began to flail away. Midges filled the air over the fast water at the head of the run. Bill put the old man right into the meatiest piece of the run, a piece of water whose surface spoke of the uneven, trout filled bottom it must have hid. If there were fish anywhere in this run, they were positioned there, beneath the sheltering limbs of a sway-backed old sycamore along the far bank.
We both swung wet flies through this water and my partner missed a couple of fish but I couldn’t touch one on the swing. Surely nymphs would find me a fish. As I watched my indicator drift into the water my father-in-law had just fished through, I readied myself for a take. It came, and I set hard. For a brief moment I was connected to a heavy throbbing. I don’t know if it was the years of pent up longing or the excitement of fishing a new river belying the fishes size to me or if it was a truly large fish. It was gone too quick to say. I hooked one more in the bottom of that run. It too felt heavy.
The next spot yielded no fish, and our guide was anxious to find fish working the egg-laying Hedricksons that had positioned themselves over the stream, so we didn’t stay long. But I’m certain this piece of water held fish: a fast, heavy run carving away at an old, undercut bank hanging over a good six to eight feet of water for a long stretch. More big fish water.
I think both my father-in-law and myself were beginning to worry about our time constraints. But I assured him that with the amount of bugs we’d seen in the air and the numerous caddis that were beginning to emerge, we’d find fish eating them somewhere. I hoped.
As we scrambled down an embankment that overlooked a piece of water a few miles down stream of the one we’d just fished, our guide yelled up to us, They’re working! Sure enough, when we could see the creek through the trees, we saw five or six nice fish working dry flies in a long tailout. I suggested that the guys work these fish while I moved down into the fast water below.
Not long after, I looked up and could see that the old man was into what appeared to be a good fish. Still fishless myself, I watched as he worked the fish in. Almost to the net, the fish surged again and he was right back where he started, so I flipped my nymphs out into the seam in front of me. On the third drift I saw the flash of a big fish and set. My rod stopped dead in its arc over my shoulder as the hook bit into something solid. A moment later, I struggled with slack as a long, snakelike brown lept clear of the fast run in which he’d been hooked. I looked upstream to see the old man still working his fish toward him. My fish fought hard, and in that fast water tired himself quickly. In the eddy where I’d been standing, he came easily to the net and I looked upstream to find my father-in-law holding what appeared to be a large, fat brown up for the camera. Sexy fish! I held mine up to show them, and Bill worked his way down with his camera to make sure any fish tales I told about the day would be accurate.
I caught a few more on nymphs before calling the day—all freshly stocked rainbows with the exception of one nice fifteen inch holdover bow. As I worked my way back upstream toward the boys, I turned over a few rocks. Each was covered with case caddis and a variety of mayflies. I also noticed some watercress in spots, which hinted at the water quality. Just why this stream was growing the large trout I’d seen for so many years and had finally seen first hand was abundantly clear. Bugs, cover, and cold water—Fishing Creek had it all.
The wedding that night went off as most weddings do: lots of drink, dance, and song. As I drove my wife and daughter back over the mountains of Central PA the following morning to our home near Pittsburgh, I though to myself just how lucky we had been to catch any fish in the short time we had to explore Fishing Creek, let alone a couple of browns that would be considered big fish anywhere in the country.
As for that longing I mentioned earlier for big trout and new water, think it’s gone? Let me just say this: like that first tentative kiss young lovers share at the end of an evening, my first encounter with this place and its fish only left me wanting and dreaming of more. I can still feel the heavy throb of that first hooked fish and my mind has put together an image of what it might have looked like. It’s a full, glossy image of a a heavy-bodied brown, black-spotted and yellow-flanked, blue cheeked with an adipose like a ripe cherry.
I’ll be back. Perhaps next spring when the water is up, and perhaps I’ll tow a drift boat. Maybe we’ll throw sinking lines and streamers while we wait for the evening rise. Next time, there’ll be no wedding to pull us away from the fish. Next time, we’ll put a whole day in, maybe two. Next time, we’ll do it right. Next time.
